Home > Automotive > 2010 Camaro SS LS3 Cam Install

2010 Camaro SS LS3 Cam Install


My 2010 Camaro just turned 1 year old, so I figured that I should get it a birthday present! With all of the basic bolt-on mods already installed, the next logical step is to install a larger camshaft. After scouring the internet for hours on end researching different cams and watching endless Youtube videos, I decided to install a Jannetty Racing Super Street 470HP Blower Cam.

Day 1 – 4 hours

Before I even get started I would like to thank robertway over at camaro5.com for putting together one of the most comprehensive DIY write-ups for installing a cam in an LS3! I will be using his write-up as a guide for my install.

Alright let’s get on with it!

First get the car on jack stands

Engine compartment before getting started

Drain oil from oil pan, replace oil filter

Drain coolant from radiator

Remove spark plugs and wires

Remove cold air intake system

Remove all radiator hoses

Remove electric fans

Remove lines from transmission cooler

Remove radiator

Clean up mess of oil, coolant and transmission fluid on the garage floor

Day 2 – 2 Hours

Unbolt A/C and transmission line brackets from cross member

Remove serpentine belt

Remove A/C belt

Remove crank bolt by heating with a torch for about 10-15 seconds, then use a 24mm socket and a big ass breaker bar to crack it loose

Using a harmonic balancer puller, remove harmonic balancer from crankshaft

Remove water pump

Remove all oil pan bolts

Remove bolts holding the battery cable tray to the block

Remove timing cover bolts and remove timing cover

Day 3 – 3.5 Hours

Drop oil pan and remove oil pump

Align cam and crank sprockets with the dots at 6 and 12 o’clock

Remove timing chain tensioner

Remove cam/sprocket bolt

Remove timing chain

Remove cam retainer plate

Remove coil packs from both valve covers

Remove both valve covers

Remove all rockers arms

Remove all pushrods

Pull A/C condenser out of the way and secure to hood latch with bungee cord

Insert 2 – 5/16″ X 24″ wood dowels into the lifter valley to prevent the lifters from dropping when removing the camshaft

Insert stock cam bolt into stock camshaft about halfway

Very carefully remove stock camshaft

Here is the new 3 bolt Comp Cams camshaft vs. the stock camshaft

Generously coat the new camshaft with synthetic motor oil, or cam lube

Partially thread three water pump bolts into the new camshaft

Very carefully, insert the new camshaft into the engine block, paying close attention not to let the cam score the bearings

Once the cam is fully inserted, remove 2 of the 3 water pump bolts

Day 4 – 3 hours

Install cam retainer plate

Install LS2 style timing chain dampner/snubber

Dip new Katech C5R timing chain into oil and place over new cam sprocket

Install new timing chain and cam sprocket with the dots at 6 and 12 o’clock

Install new Melling oil pump carefully paying attention to not to tear the o-ring on the pickup tube

Check and double check that the pickup tube to oil pump connection is sealed properly. It should look like this when assembled

Install the pickup tube to oil pump bolt

Remove factory installed RTV sealant from oil pan gasket

Install oil pan and starter, torque all fastners

Day 5 – 4 Hours

On to the valvetrain…

Ensure that piston is at TDC for the cylinder that you are working so that the valves don’t drop into the block

Using a Crane Cams valve spring compressor tool compress two valve springs at a time

Remove valve locks, retainers and valve springs

Using pliers, remove the combination valve spring seats/valve seals

Install new spring seats

Install new valve seals

Install new dual valve spring, retainer and locks

Repeat this process for each cylinder (It is a rocking good time!)

Once all the valve springs have been replaced, install new hardened pushrods and rocker arms one cylinder at a time

Day 6 – 4 Hours

Punch out crank seal on timing cover and replace with a new seal

Install timing cover

Install harmonic balancer (Major PITA)

Reconnect battery cable tray to bottom of block

Install water pump

Install A/C and serpentine belts

Install rocker covers

Install coil packs

Install spark plugs

I decided to install a Katech heater hose relocation kit to get the heater hoses off the top of the intake manifold (another PITA). This kit re-routes the heater hoses to clean up the engine, and gets the hot hoses off of the intake manifold.

Since I lost about a quart of transmission fluid when disconnecting the lines from the cooler, I figured now would be a good time to drain the remaining fluid from the transmission and change it over to synthetic fluid.

Day 7 – 2 Hours

Install radiator, connect all hoses/lines

Install E-Fans

Fill transmission with 4 quarts of Mobil 1 synthetic ATF

Fill engine with 7 additional quarts of Mobil 1 oil

Fill radiator with 50/50 Dexcool Antifreez/Coolant

Install cold air intake

Check all fuel lines, PCV hoses, electrical connections, etc. under the hood

Crank engine over several times for 15-20 seconds with spark plugs disconnected to circulate oil through engine and build oil pressure

Connect spark plug wires

Say a prayer, start engine!

The results:

  1. Mike
    August 10, 2012 at 11:22 pm

    Great write up thank you!

  2. erik
    April 6, 2013 at 3:13 pm

    Lol, all the fluids are synthetic from chev.
    Check your dealer if you doubt me.
    BTW, both A6 AND M6 use synthetic ATF.

  3. Michael
    April 18, 2013 at 4:09 pm

    What’s it dyno?

  4. January 7, 2019 at 3:02 pm

    I know this is an old post but did you run into any difficulties dropping the oil pan? I am planning on doing a cam swap soon.

    • January 26, 2019 at 9:50 am

      No need to completely remove the oil pan for the cam swap. Just need to remove all of the bolts and let the pan drop down a couple of inches.

  5. April 11, 2019 at 11:12 pm

    Thank God for OHC engines! Great guide though.

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